Drain Jetting Beaver

The working end of a drain jetter. Rear jets pull the hose up the line and scour the wall behind you; forward jets break the blockage in front. The balance between them is what separates a penetrating head that punches a hole through a blockage, an invading head that cleans as it travels, and a thrusting head that is all pull and no front jet. Full Mustang range in 1/8", 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" BSP. All current stock.

Ways to buy this nozzle:

Choose your size

What is in the box

• One drain jetting nozzle as selected
• Versions listed "with QR-A and cone" or "with QR-C and stainless cone" include those parts
• Plain versions are the nozzle head only - no adaptor, no cone

Technicians Advice

The mistake that costs people money is buying on price and ignoring flow index. Every one of these heads is drilled to pass a specific flow at a specific pressure, and the whole design depends on it - the rear jets are angled to produce a calculated pulling force and the forward jet to produce a calculated cutting jet. Run an undersized head and the pump goes into bypass, the machine heats, and you get no pull. Run an oversized head and pressure collapses and the jet will not cut. If you do not know your machine numbers, look at the pump plate, not the badge on the trailer. Second, on retrieving a stuck head: never winch the hose. The head is stuck because a rear jet has caught a root or an offset joint, and pulling hard usually parts the hose at the crimp and leaves the head in the line. Back the pressure off, let the head relax, feed a little forward, then withdraw slowly with the water running. Third, wash the head after every job. Grit dries in the jets and the next start-up drives it into the orifice.

Complete your setup

All Drain Jetting NozzlesNozzles and Nozzle HoldersBrowse Trigger Guns

Buying in bulk or fitting out a fleet? Call us for trade pricing.

Need help choosing? Call 1300 146 737 or email sales@mhfgc.com.au – real technicians, real answers.